Siena September 10-12 2018
Monday September 10 - This morning we got up and walked to the train station to begin our trek to Siena. We have a stop in Florence, but not at the main station so it won’t be as busy. We arrived in Siena at around 1:30. Rick Steves describes how to get to the city center by bus or escalator, but with our bags we decided to just take a taxi.
Upon arrival at Via Stelloreggi 16 we were met by Joy. She walked us across the street to our apartment at Via Stelloreggi 19. The apartment is in a good location, right by the Duomo, and just down the street from Piazza del Campo. It is quite small and we are without a refrigerator and air conditioning for the first time on this trip.
After a quick shower to freshen up we headed down to Piazza del Campo, where we found another outdoor cafe, Ristorante Spadaforte, to grab a late lunch/early dinner. Blaine had a fabulous pasta with mushrooms and sausage in a cream sauce. Jeri needed some greens, so she had a side of spinach and a salad.
After dinner we strolled around Piazza del Campo. This is where the Palio di Siena is held. It is a horse race that is held twice each year, on July 2 and August 16. Ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colors, represent ten of the seventeen contrada, or city wards. The race itself, in which the jockeys ride bareback, circles the Piazza del Campo, on which a thick layer of dirt has been laid. The race is run for three laps of the piazza and usually lasts no more than 90 seconds. We watched a video of one of the races at a local store on the Piazza. The crowds were unbelievable and after the race was over the horse and jockey were mobbed by joyous fans from the ward. It looked like they were going to trample the poor guy!!!
On the walk back to our apartment we came across a huge celebration. It was a fundraiser for the Aquila contrada, which is the neighborhood that we are staying in, Our understanding is that the money will help fund the next Palio. Unfortunately, the party is right by our apartment and the celebration lasted until the wee hours of the morning!!
Tuesday September 11 - We were going to take a day trip to Florence, but decided instead to take a tour of the Tuscan countryside. We made reservations Monday night with Your Tours to visit Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano. The tour includes 2 wine tastings, one in Montalcino, and one in Montepulciano. As we waited at the pickup spot, we started a conversation with a woman named Kristan. It turns out she is from Portland, Oregon. She is on a month long tour of Italy by herself. We found out that she and her soon to be ex-husband own Swift and Union restaurant, as well as the Tabor Tavern.
Our tour guide, Lavinia, explained to us that our first stop at the Abbadia Ardenga winery is owned by 85 year old Mario. He is quite the character, as we soon found out. Loves the ladies!! His winery produces what is considered the best wine in Italy, Brunello di Montecino.
Typically when Blaine drinks wine. it is a white wine, and Jeri’s preference is usually white zinfandel, so we would not be considered red wine experts. However, the red wines that Mario produces are really very tasty. The Brunello di Montalcino was excellent. Mario even let Blaine taste Brunello di Montacino Reserve. That was quite an honor.
Our next stop was Pienza. Pienza means city of Pius and it is named that because Pope Pius ll was born there. It is a Renaissance town. The central Piazza Pio II is framed by 15th-century buildings like the Pienza Cathedral and Piccolomini Palace. The latter was Pope Pius II’s summer residence. We learned that parts of Gladiator, starring Russel Crowe, were filmed just outside of town. Pienza is also famous for production of pecorino cheese, which is made from goats milk.
We also learned the Palazzo Piccolomini was used as the setting for the Capuleti’s home, where the two young lovers meet for the first time at a dance party, in Franco Zeffirelli’s movie version of Romeo and Juliet. On the occasion of the movie’s 50th anniversary, an exhibition celebrating it is on display in the Palazzo Piccolomini. “What is a Youth”, which is the title song in the movie, was playing inside the building as we walked past. It was so peaceful to hear.
Next up was Montepulciano. It sits high atop a hill overlooking the valley. The views are spectacular. There wasn’t much time to explore so we sat and had a drink and listened to a young couple play the guitar and violin. There was one last wine tasting at Talosa. The cellar is down in a cave underneath the shop. Talosa is a larger production winery and they export their wines to other parts of the world. Their wines were good, but I have to say, not as good as Mario’s Brunella di Montalcino.
Wednesday September 12 - We took our time getting ready this morning. Blaine went for a coffee latte and a pastry while Jeri got ready. The market was in town so we headed over to check it out. It was huge!! Mostly clothes, but a wide assortment of pretty much anything you could think of.
So far we have not done any church tours on this trip. St Marks in Venice was just too crowded. In Siena though there is a beautiful Duomo and we decided to take the tour. We’re glad we did. The Duomo is a 13th century cathedral and bell tower and is one of the most illustrious examples of Romanesque-Gothic style in Italy.. (that’s a direct quote from Rick Steves) The interior is absolutely stunning. I have posted some pictures, but they jist can’t show the beauty of this church. We spent about 2 hours inside the Duomo itself. The next part of the tour was to the unfinished part of the church. Siena had intended to enlarge the Duomo to outdo their rival city, Florence, however they ran out of money. You have to walk up 130 steps in a circular staircase, which at times was just barely big enough to pass through. Jeri was not feeling too thrilled, but she powered her way through!!
On the way back to our apartment we stopped by the rental office and Joy arranged to have a taxi pick us up at 6:00am tomorrow to take us to the train station.
Our last meal in Siena was at a restaurant right across from the apartment. Blaine had homemade noodles with boar meat and Jeri had ravioli with marinara sauce. Early to bed tonight as we have an early tain to Sorrento tomorrow. Caio!!
Our host Mario. What a wonderful character!!!
In Montepulciano
